Last winter, I traveled up north to the Yukon Territory in Canada. This far north, the air is rarefied indeed and the truly stunning landscape takes your breath every time you step outside or catch a glimpse of it through an open window. The air is frosty, but the people are toasty and so welcoming that it soon warms the cockles and biggest danger isn’t frost bite: it’s that once you set foot in the Yukon, you may never want to leave.